The standard whatever.fit(X, y) isn't very appealing but there are much more bespoke models that require creative engagement with stats/CS knowledge, e.g. Bayesian hierarchical models or deep learning models that are more complicated than what can be copy/pasted from Medium.
I've done a lot of ensemble and stacked ensemble learning. I've also used BERT and a couple of other advanced ML, but usually I resort to advanced feature engineering if I can first, so I get what you mean, but it's still not as fun to me as figuring out patterns in data.
It's sort of two-sided, I think. It can be fun to figure out _meaningful_ patterns in data. I don't really find it fun to figure out that "so and so didn't use software that understood NA values back in nineteen tickety two, so some NA values are NA because they're newer, and some NA values are 0 because 0 is just like NULL in somebody's head, and some NA values are -999 because that was a thing they did in the Before Times."
